In this package, you will find the following parts:
Find and identify all these parts first before attempting the installation. Notify us immediately of any missing parts. This kit was double checked to be complete before we shipped it.
Read This!
Please understand, that installation of this throttle kit requires removing the Yamaha T.O.R.S. (Throttle Over-Ride System), and by removing this system you will NOT have the protection from stuck throttles that this system offers. You will therefore be entirely responsible for the proper installation, operation and maintenance of this throttle system. If you don't understand any of the above, you can call us at (805)-239-8870 and we will explain it to you.
Procedure:
First remove the top cap of the stock throttle housing and detach the throttle cable.
Remove your seat and gas tank to facilitate the cable routing. Take note of where the stock throttle cable has been routed through the frame as you would want to route your new cable in the same manner, assuming the stock throttle cable was routed properly, and you had no binding or pinching problems with the stock cable.
Unplug the wires going from the stock carb tops into the wiring harness. Now, unplug the T.O.R.S. control box located above the left cylinder head, on the frame. (Some people call this the "rev-limiter", but in fact there is NO rev-limiter on a Banshee other than the stock pipes) You must unplug this little black box or the bike won't start.
Locate and remove the gold colored carb top locks on the outsides of each carb. These have a "L" for left and an "R" for right stamped in them so be sure to replace them on the respective carbs when you are done installing the new carb caps supplied with the throttle kit. Now unscrew the carb tops and remove the tops and cables along with the carb throttle slides/needles and lay this out on your clean work bench. Be careful of the slide needles as they are very fragile and expensive and cannot be used if they become bent.
To remove the carb slides from the stock cables, gather up the throttle return springs with your fingers until the spring is fully compressed into the stock carb top and the slide is left dangling on the cable. There is a gold colored cable keeper-plate inside the slide, notice now, how it is installed and how it keeps the cable in the slide. You will need this information later when you put it back in. This keeper must now be removed, usually by shaking the slide while holding it upside down. The gold colored keeper should fall out of its own weight. If not, you can grab it gently with a small pair of needle-nose pliers and lift it out. Un hook the cable from the slide. Keep the spring, the cable keeper and the slide, you won't need the rest of the stock parts.
Now, wash your hands and clean all parts, as the following operations must be dirt free.
You'll now install the new parts on the new cables. First are the rubber boots. Slide them, small end first, over the cable wire, then up a couple of inches on the cable sheath, (this is on the part of the cable that goes to the carb caps, the short sections). Next, place the cable wire through the cable adjuster in each carb cap until each cable sheath seats into the cable adjuster.
Place the throttle return spring over the cable wire and gather it up against the carb cap just like you did when you had the stock cable and carb cap in your hand, and hook the throttle slide on the cable. Remember how the little gold cable keeper went in? Put it in the same way here, and let the throttle return spring down on it. Be sure now, the spring seats fully inside the slide and the cable is locked in place. Now do the same to the other cable.
Now you're ready to put the slides back into the carbs. Make sure you have the right one in the right side and the left one in the left side. To confirm this, be sure the throttle slide guide pin in the throttle slide bore, in the carb, is lined up with the long groove in the slide AND that the "cutaway"( the beveled edge on the bottom of the slide faces the back of the bike as you sit on it). If you get them in the wrong way, they won't slide all the way down to the bottom of the carb throat floor, like they should. After you get both of them in the right way, screw the carb tops down all the way. Be especially careful as these tops are easy to cross-thread. You can now replace the gold colored carb cap locking plates now too (marked L and R).
Route the cable up through the frame just like the stock one was. In case the stock cable was routed poorly, the criteria is to keep as big a radius as possible everywhere in the cable, to avoid kinks or sharp turns and to insure the cable is fully relaxed when you turn the handlebars from lock to lock, so that nothing will pull or squish the cable. Attach the cable to the thumb throttle in the same manner as the stock one. Screw the throttle cable into the upper housing fully.
"Blip" (twist) the throttle a couple of times to insure everything works properly, and although everything might not be adjusted properly yet, there is no binding or unusual feel. Confirm the throttle slides bottom out fully on the floor of the carb bore too. There should be approx.. 1/4" of play in the handle end of the throttle cable too, when the throttle slides are fully down. You can now replace the gas tank and seat.
Your next step is to synchronize the two carbs. We recommend the use of a tool called a "UNI-SYN" commonly found in auto parts stores that deal with Volkswagen or sports car parts. This tool is really simple and produces near perfect results.
In the absence of any tools, the manual method will get you really close, if not, right on.
With the air cleaner off the bike you can stick your fingers in the back of the carb and actually feel the slides move. What you hope to accomplish here is to feel which slide moves first, and adjust the other to match it so that they move exactly at the same time.
Using the carb cap cable adjuster on the slide that moves first, adjust the cable play so there is about an eighth of an inch of freeplay between the cable sheath being all the way down in the adjuster and where it is when it starts pulling the slide. Tighten down the lock nut on the cable adjuster and slide the rubber boot down over the adjuster. This one's done. Going to the other side, adjust the carb cap cable adjuster such that when the first carbs' slide just starts to move, this one moves too. Adjust them so they open together. Again, lock the adjuster with the lock nut and slide the boot down to cover the adjuster.
Final check:
Please understand, the adjusters on the carb tops are NOT an idle adjustment! Use the included idle kit for idle control. It is very important that there is the recommended play in the cable system to avoid stuck throttles!
Included in this package are the following parts;
Please find and identify all these parts before continuing this installation. Do not proceed without the proper parts. We certify that all parts listed above are included in this package. If for some reason you find something missing you must file a claim with the freight carrier (usually UPS). Please refer to our Limits of Liability on the last page of these instructions for more information.
Procedure:
Locate the idle screw bosses on the outside of the carbs. After you have identified these bosses you can remove the carburetors completely from the machine. You can just unscrew the carb tops and pull out the slide assy. complete and leave them on the bike. Then, you must disassemble the carb bodies completely.
The left carb has its boss on the left side and the right one on its right. If you look on the right side of the left carb and the left side of the right carb, there will appear to be a drilled and tapped hole that looks very much like an idle screw hole. I'm not sure what these holes are for, but rest assured, these are NOT the Idle screw holes. If you are not sure which hole is which, call us and we will help explain it. The ones you want are not threaded.
Be Careful with this next step!
Using a drill press or very steady hand drill with the supplied #6 drill bit, finish drilling through the idle screw passages into the throttle bore but NOT through the other side of the throttle bore. There is perhaps only a quarter of an inch of thickness to drill through.
Next is the only minorly difficult part, but it is necessary, and must be done carefully and correctly. The Idle screw boss casting comes finished off at an angle. This must be filed, milled or ground flat (perpendicular to the idle screw hole) so that the Idle screw lock-nut will have a flat surface to lock against to secure the Idle screws.
On some carbs, you might have to machine it a little shorter as well. The finished measurement is about 3/4 of an inch (or 20 mm) from the outside of the carb to the lock nut surface.
Now that you have finished these steps, you can screw the supplied (6mm X .75) tap through the idle screw hole fully. Be sure to use a good oil or taping fluid specifically for aluminum for this job. This way you will get a good clean thread.
Now, and most important is to de-bur the hole. You can use a sharp knife on the inside hole and a chamfer tool on the outside of the hole to put a nice 45o chamfer and remove any remaining filings from the drilling or tapping process. You must also use a little fine (like 400 or 600 grit) sandpaper inside the throttle bore to smooth the edge of your new hole so that there will not be any burrs to stick the throttle slide. Please test-fit the slide in the bore of the carb before final assembly to insure it slides freely. Stuck throttles while riding are no joke.
You must make certain of this point!
Now please clean thoroughly the entire carb of all chips and dirt.
Only after everything is perfectly clean and all chips are gone, (use compressed air to thoroughly blow out any and all chips & dirt) can you screw the idle screws into the carbs, (don't forget to put the lock nut on first) and re-assemble the complete carb paying particular attention to set the float level at 21mm.
With the Idle screws backed out a little, so they don't touch the slides, install the carbs on the bike. Be sure to install the slides properly. Specifically, with the "cut-away" facing the rear of the bike, and the big 45o notch on the bottom facing the Idle screw. This is the ramp that the idle screws use to hold the slides in the idle position. Please confirm that the slides do in fact "bottom out" in the throttle bore, and that they lift with the turning of the throttle, at precisely the same time. (synchronized)
Now, start the bike and warm it up thoroughly. While holding the throttle at the desired idle level, screw in the Idle screws until they just start to touch the slides and raise the RPM, then back off about 1/4 turn, and secure the lock nut. do the same to the other side and you're done! The Idle rpm should be around 1400 rpm, or as low an rpm that is stable when the engine is warm.
Final Check;
IMPORTANT MESSAGE--PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND!
Toomey Racing USA, Inc. (Toomey) warrants only to the
original purchaser the equipment purchased is free from defects in material and
workmanship under normal use and service. Components of the equipment are
supplied to Toomey by others and Toomey warrants such components to the
purchaser only to the extent that such components are warranted to Toomey by the
supplier. Toomey's obligation under this warranty shall be limited to the repair or
exchange of any part or parts which may thus prove defective under normal use and
service within one year from date of the invoice and which Toomey's examination shall disclose to
Toomey's satisfaction to be thus defective. This warranty is expressly in lieu of all
other warranties expressed or implied and of all other obligations or liabilities on our
part, and Toomey neither assumes, nor authorizes any other person to assume for
Toomey any other liability in connection with the sale of this equipment or any part
thereof which has been subject to accident, negligence, alteration, abuse, or misuse.
Toomey makes no warranty whatsoever in respect to accessories or parts not
supplied by Toomey. The term "original purchaser", as used in this warranty, shall be
deemed to mean that person for whom the equipment is originally invoiced. This
warrant shall apply only within the boundaries of the continental United States.
The remedy defined in this statement shall be the Purchaser's exclusive remedy
against Toomey Racing USA.
WARRANTY LIMITATIONS
