Step #1: Stock Pipe Removal
Pull all four springs holding the pipes to the engine and the spring that ties the pipes together. Now you can loosen the 2 hose clamps that hold the rubber joints to the middle curved stinger tubes, (above the carbs).
Now remove the stock mufflers. Each of them is held with three bolts. The most forward bolt may be hard to get to under the plastic fender cover, so you may want to remove the entire rear fender assembly.
Next, remove the short stinger tube on either side of the cylinders. Save the black tubular rubber pipe seals because you will use them on the new pipes at the pipe to stinger joint just above the carburetors. The black ones are better than the orange ones although the orange ones are ok to use too.
Now you can remove the bolt on top of the stock pipe that holds it to the stock rubber mount. Now is also a good time to loosen the top bolt on this rubber mount and swing it forward 90 degrees and just lightly snug it down for now. Take off the stock pipes and clean off the cylinder spud onto which the headpipe flange fits.
Step #2: Reverse the Radiator Hose
You must first get a clean drain pan to catch the coolant that will drain out of the system while performing this next part. Be SURE to pour the drained coolant BACK into the radiator when finished.
Now, look at your lower radiator return hose that runs between the stock pipes, from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump area on the right engine cover. There is a spring (heat shield) wrapped around the hose from about midway, going up to the radiator. It is held in place by a rubber washer glued on the hose at the back of the spring.
A simple solution for the fit of this hose and our pipe, is to simply reverse the hoseÕs installation, end for end, it seems to fit much better that way, and the heat shield spring will then be next to the T5 pipe, where it will do some good! Rotate the hose to the best position, and tighten gently.
It's pretty safe to say, that if it's covered by the spring, you won't have any problems. If necessary, you could ty-rap the hose to the frame tube to hold it in position more securely, away from the right exhaust pipe. Any small air gap is sufficient. Just make sure it touches nothing hot!
Step #3: Installing the Jet Kit
We think it best to do the carb re-jetting part now, while the pipes are off because it makes it easier to get to the carbs.
First a Tech-Note about our jet kits: For those of you who may wonder, our jet kits are THE most accurate jetting combination possible for this pipe kit. That is why we include it. If we could have used any of the stock parts, we certainly would have. The truth is, the stock parts are simply WRONG no matter how you adjust them. We have a special contract with Dyno-Jet Corp. for them to manufacture this kit exclusively for us. They have the special technology by which they can precisely determine the exact fuel needs at all throttle positions, and loads, for exactly the following equipment combination:
*The Toomey Racing T5 Pipes
*Toomey Racing Silencers
*Stock carbs
*Standard or Boyesen Reeds on the stock reed block
*Boyesen RAD-Valves
*Standard or Toomey Racing ported cylinders, and that's IT!
If you have any other parts you want to use, like different silencers or carbs or something like that, these jets might not be accurate and we couldn't possibly be responsible for the results, not to mention your power could be down.
Unless you are a carb expert, it is my recommendation to re-jet only one carb at a time. This way you will positively avoid one of the most common mistakes, --reversing the throttle slides. They really run terrible from zero to about 3/4 throttle when the slides are in backward! It runs like the choke is stuck on. If you bike runs like this when you are done, that's probably what it is. Please read ALL of this to insure everything goes well.
OK! Let's do it!
First, wash your bike really well, especially around the carbs. When you remove them, you don't want dirt getting in the engine or the carbs. Second, wait for it to dry, you don't want any water in the engine or carbs either!
DO NOT SMOKE OR HAVE ANY SOURCE OF SPARK OR FLAME ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR BIKE OR WORK AREA. YOU WILL BE HANDLING RAW FUEL, AND THE DANGER OF FIRE IS GREAT! ALSO, WORK ONLY IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AS FUEL FUMES ARE TOXIC.
Turn off the fuel petcock and disconnect all the hoses and fuel lines.
Loosen the clamp on the rubber intake manifold, at the front of the carb, and the clamp connecting the carb to the airbox.
Unscrew the carb top and pull out the slide and needle assembly. Now you can remove the carb body from the engine. Watch out for the short black rubber hose that connects the two carbs. This is the tube that communicates the choke from the left carb (the only carb with a choke) to the right carb so the engine will see a choked mixture in both cylinders.
Take it over to your nice clean workbench and remove the float bowl and the float bowl gasket. (Don't rip it! they are almost totally unavailable!) Some fuel will run out so be careful. With the float bowl off, turn the carb upside down and there, right in the middle will be the main jet. (the 1/4" long brass hex piece with the hole in the middle, and a number either on the end or the side, usually a #220)
Use a 6mm wrench to unscrew this jet, and replace it with the #280 jet found in your Toomey Racing Jet Kit.
NOTE 1:
The #270 Jet is for operation higher than 2500 feet in altitude. The 280 is the sea level setting up through 2500 feet. On particularly cold days or at very low altitudes (winter in Glamis, CA) you may need a #290 or #300. Conversely, at high altitudes, above 3000 feet you may need a 260, 250 or even less depending on how high you are and how hot it is. We haven't tested at these altitudes, so any recommendation from me would just be a guess. You would do far better to test it yourself when you are there.
Now you must verify the float level setting, as they are frequently out of adjustment and any bouncing around that the bike does just makes them go off more. They should really be checked at least every 3 months or sooner. If you are racing, set them before every race, when you do your normal pre-race maintenance.
Hold the carb with the throttle bore vertical and the float hinge at the top so that the floats can swing freely. Swing the floats with your finger to verify they are free and operating properly. Now, just rotate the carb towards the upside-down position only until the floats just sit down on the float needle valve. Any more rotation will cause the weight of the floats to push down on the spring loaded float needle valve and you will get an erroneous reading. The proper angle is about a 45 degree angle from vertical.
At this point with either a metric measuring scale or the tail end of a pair of calipers (or other such accurate measuring device) measure the distance from the float bowl gasket surface -- WITHOUT THE GASKET-- to the top of the float itself. This measurement should be 21mm exactly on both floats. If you get some other reading just bend or tweak the float arms until you get this setting. Just don't bend them sideways so that they may interfere with the float bowl itself. Check for clearance when you are finished. When you are satisfied they are perfect, replace the float bowl gasket and float bowl.
Step #4: Needle Installation
Gather up the throttle return spring with your fingers and hold it out of the way as you turn the slide upside down and try to shake loose the gold colored cable keeper out of the slide. After you have achieved this, you can now slide the throttle cable out of the cast aluminum holder in the slide. Now, unscrew the cast aluminum holder inside the slide as the needle is beneath this. Once out, simply push out the needle from the bottom-up, and replace it with your jet kit needle with the supplied "E" clip on the FOURTH GROOVE. We count down from the grooved end of the needle.
NOTE 2:
The small washers that come in your jet kit are "half-height washers". This means that if, for some reason, there is a need to make a needle height adjustment, and you move the clip one groove and the machine runs better, but the move was perhaps too much, you can move the clip back to the original groove and use the washer under the clip to shim the clip up 1/2 a groove. This means, of course, that the washer is "in use" only when under the clip. If it is not needed (as in the normal scenario) the washer may either be "stored" by placing it on TOP of the clip, or you can leave them out. After you place the needle back in the slide, replace the aluminum cable holder and tighten the screws (gently).
NOTE 3:
There is a hole in the bottom of the slide on the inside as you look down from the top. Also notice there is a passage way on the aluminum cable holder too. These must lineup! The purpose of this passage is so that the slide has an air vent to the top of the carb. Otherwise the slide would act as a piston in the cylinder and compress air above it. Once the compressed air blew out down the sides of the slide between the slide and the slide bore, the slide might stick on the way down because of the resulting vacuum created. Please line these holes up! While holding the throttle return spring, put the cable back in the slide, as well as the gold colored cable keeper and release the spring.
Reinstall the throttle slide in the carb body making sure the "CUTAWAY" (the slight angle cut on the bottom of the slide) faces the rear of the bike. AND that the guide pin groove (the thin groove that goes from top to bottom on the side of the slide) lines up with the guide pin in the slide bore (in the carb). The grooves will be on the right side of the left slide and on the left side of the right slide. (i.e.. the grooves will face each other in the installed position, with the "cutaway" facing the rear of the bike) The other "notch" on the opposite side of the slide (about a quarter inch wide by three eighths high with a forty five degree angled ramp) is the Idle screw ramp. This is only used with normal idle screws, as in out twist grip kits. The stock idle control of course being the white knob on the top of the boxes on the top of the carbs.
Now is the time to remove the airbox. For now, just leave the carbs hanging by the cables for now, until you get the airbox out. You might want to tie them out of the way, while you struggle with the airbox removal and cover them, and the intake manifolds with a rag so they won't get any dirt inside. After removing the two bolts at the top and back of the airbox, push it forward off of the front mounting pins. It will come out if you twist it 90 degrees, and go out the right side of the bike, it is better than trying to go out the left (more room).
Now reinstall the carbs in the manifolds and tighten the clamps. Remember to reconnect the choke cross-over tube now as well. Remove the radiator overflow bottle and re-route the hose down to the ground and cut it off at an angle if it is too long. We loosely tie it to the steering stem, and cut it off about 2Ó below the frame tubes.
It is ONLY a catch bottle, not a recalculating system.
Install the 2:1 High Flow Filter System:
With your free, included spray oil can, lightly spray the outside of the foam air filter and massage the foam with your hands to work the oil in, gently. This is all that is required in the way of oiling.
Now, find and use the stock airbox manifold boot clamps, and just slip the 2:1 rubber manifold over the two carb mouths, and tighten the clamps gently so that the filter system is securely and fully mounted on the carbs. You may have to hold it up with one hand, while tightening the clamps to insure it is installed fully in contact with the carb mouth flanges. If it is not fully seated on the carb mouths, tightening the clamps may make the rubber spit off the back of the carb. It MUST be fully slipped over the carb mouth. The system is self supporting.
Step #5: Installation of the New Pipes
To install your Toomey Racing Pipes, You must first turn the handlebars in the direction of the side you are working on. For example, If you are putting the left pipe on, turn the handlebars all the way to the left. This will get the tie-rod out of your way. On the left side in particular, as you hold the pipe by the center section, (the largest diameter part) up near the mount bracket, put it on the bike by pointing the head pipe part (the small diameter part with the exhaust flange and orange "O"ring) in towards the bike, and at the same time making sure that the stinger (pipe outlet) is held above the choke lever (plunger) back at the carbs. Then just push the pipe up on the cylinder spud making sure that it is straight and parallel to the spud axis. It may help to put a small amount of grease or oil on the "O" ring in the headpipe before installing, just to help. Now hook the pipe springs to the pipe and wiggle the pipe to make certain the pipe is all the way up on the cylinder spud.
Next, fasten the pipe at the top to the rubber mount on the outside of the rubber mount with the supplied 8mm Bolt & Lock Nut, and tighten. Torque = 2.5 Kg-M (18 ft.lbs) Now do the other one the same way.
Step #6: Installing the Silencers
First you must bolt the mufflers to the long stingers. The long stingers are marked left and right with a stamped "L" and "R", stamped into the muffler mounting flange surface (tube side) (otherwise, you can tell the left one because it is about one inch longer than the right one. The mufflers can be identified by noting that the Toomey Racing aluminum emblem is applied to the outside
Now you place the stock black rubber joint sealer (the ones that came off of your stock pipes) over the stinger tube and you can slide the stinger tube expanded end over the pipe body stinger outlet and bolt up the silencer rubber mount to the frame just above the silencer, where the rear chrome handle mounts to the frame. You might want to use a longer bolt for this as the stock one might be a little short. Now you can align and tighten the black rubber joint over the connection of pipe and stinger. Slide the rubber joint up onto the rear cone of the pipe a little ways, say 1/2 inch or so, so the clamp will snug down on the rubber.
Some things to think about next:
1.Banshee Clutch Kit $ 99.99
2.Stainless Allen Bolt Engine Cover Kit $ 19.99
3.Magnetic Drain Plug $ 5.99
4.Boyesen Reeds (2 sets) $ 49.99
5.Twist Grip Conversion Kits (Thumb type too) $ 69.99
If you have any questions or comments relating to OUR products, please Email our Technical Support at: tech@toomey.com or call us @ (805) 239-8870.
Thank You from all of us at Toomey Racing USA...and please ride safely!
******* Warranty Limitations *******
Toomey Racing USA, Inc. (Toomey) warrants only to the original purchaser the equipment purchased is free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use and service. Components of the equipment are supplied to Toomey by others and Toomey warrants such components to the purchaser only to the extent that such components are warranted to Toomey by the supplier. Toomey's obligation under this warranty shall be limited to the repair or exchange of any part or parts which may thus prove defective under normal use and service within one year from date of the invoice and which Toomey's examination shall disclose to Toomey's satisfaction to be thus defective. This warranty is expressly in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied and of all other obligations or liabilities on our part, and Toomey neither assumes, nor authorizes any other person to assume for Toomey any other liability in connection with the sale of this equipment or any part thereof which has been subject to accident, negligence, alteration, abuse, or misuse. Toomey makes no warranty whatsoever in respect to accessories or parts not supplied by Toomey. The term "original purchaser", as used in this warranty, shall be deemed to mean that person for whom the equipment is originally invoiced. This warrant shall apply only within the boundaries of the continental United States.
The remedy defined in this statement shall be the Purchaser's exclusive remedy against Toomey Racing USA. In no case shall Toomey Racing USA be liable hereunder for any consequential damages.
THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY, WHICH EXTEND BEYOND THE FACE OF THIS STATEMENT.
